Newsletter No. 19 - AUTUMN 2008

From the ridiculous to the sublime!
After the tiny yields of 2007, what an amazing vintage 2008 has turned out to be. Dry, warm Spring weather made for an early bud-burst. Late Spring rain set up good canopy growth and a generous fruit set. A warm but by no means excessively hot summer followed, leading to a February where the thermometer did not once get to 30 degrees. The whites in particular seemed to appreciate the cooler ripening conditions with Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc coming off in early March with very pure fruit characters and model acids. Around the same time the weather pattern changed completely and series of days with maximums between 30 and 34 degrees ensued. The Canberra continentality worked in our favour as the night temperatures dropped by 20 degrees from the day time peaks. In other words: perfect conditions for ripening reds! Shiraz, Viognier and Bordeaux varieties were harvested in the third and fourth weeks of March. Brilliant colours, high but generally not excessive sugars, ripe tannins and rich flavours. Yields are up 20% on average. Bath tubs and gum boots called into service for red ferments, everything coming in at the same time. An amazing vintage. Perhaps a great one. Time will tell.

Last year’s Shiraz Viognier retrospective dinners went well. It was great to have ten vintages of Shiraz Viognier there on the table for everyone to see. Given the vagaries of cork there was some variation in the wines between the various dinners. Campbell Mattinson was one of the wine writers who joined us for the Melbourne dinner. Here is how Campbell saw the wines on the night:

1997:

Once it had relaxed in the glass it drank beautifully in a herbal, peppery, floral manner. Drink: Now-2012.
88 points.

1998:

In great shape. Just starting to hit its straps. Bright fruit, smoke, meat, juicy acidity, balance, will live for another ten years at least. Drink: 2009-2017.
93 points.

1999:

Green, stemmy, peppery. Nice wine, pulls a little short but hanging in well. Drink: 2007-2013.
87 points.

2000:

Nice tannin, huge stalky perfume, attractive in a 2002 Victorian pinot manner – but on the night, this just wasn't to my taste. Drink: 2009-2016.
86 points.

2001:

Massively better than anything that has come before. Textural, lengthy, spicy, sweet-fruited, floral, irresistible. Great wine. Drink: 2012-2022.
96 points.

2002:

Gorgeously aromatic, gamey, lengthy, textural – this should be phenomenal in seven to ten years. Drink: 2012-2020.
94 points.

2003:

In great form, with a great future ahead. Combination of spicy interest and slippery-smooth mid- palate texture is glorious. Drink: 2013-2022.
94 points.

2004:

This is great, textural, floral, delicious shiraz viognier. On the night, it seemed fruity and glossy - like the viognier was sticking out a touch more than on the others. Drink: 2010-2022.
95 points.

2005:

A superlative wine. A step up. Pretty, structural, complex, super-persistent, pure, light on its feet and yet powerful. This is the one. Drink: 2014-2025.
98 points.

2006:

Seems sweet, young, raspberried, fruit driven. Very musky, floral, pure and raw. Hedonistic – cop a load of this. Will be outstanding in time. Drink: 2007-2020.
95 points.

2007 (sneak preview):

Black pepper, stalks, cherries, plums. A great one – another 2005, though spicier. Really complex, highly structural, highly textural. Wow. Drink: 2008-2028.
97 points.